Thursday, July 05, 2007

Louise Dahl-Wolfe; Final #4


Dear class,

This is the last day of our series on fashion photography at your local library. The following photos are by American photographer Louise Dahl-Wolfe, who shot almost exclusively for Harper's Bazaar. Now, if you will follow me, let's get started.


[All photos belong to Louise Dahl-Wolfe and their respective publications etc etc]

Eight Favorites from Louise Dahl-Wolfe


This makes me want to wear flowers in my hair.


Love this photo, or rather, the clothes...a very feminine sort of roman, gladiator look. Plus, high waisted skirts are in right now and gladiator sandals are always cute.


Louise Dahl-Wolfe really knows how to show off the clothes. In the rest of the books, all I thought about was how good the photograph was, not necessarily focusing on the clothes. But this lady was good. I mean, even now, I would wear this outfit if I could. It's fresh but very elegant.


Printed top + orange shorts ...v. bold. I can imagine Audrey Hepburn under there with her figure.


This stunning photo makes me want to be this girl. Gorgeous dress, beautiful color palette, what more can I say?


Great photograph. They were really in the desert, too-- you can see the sweat on her back.


Reminds me of a bit like Milly.


A bit nun in the city. But after you overcome that, the headwrap and the coat is just such a rich combination. Even though it wouldn't match my skin tone, I'd love to wear that.


I thought it would be fun to add in some more categories:


Palettes

I've been really liking that sort of small white polka dot print paired with any dark neutral or rich color.



Soft, Vibrant & Siamese



Meet my Friends: Thin, Tiny, Stripes &...Eggshell ;)



Antique Icy Blue & White




Proof (sometimes creepy) That Times are the Same

Canary Yellow-- remember that was in a while ago?



See, they used to put in little quips of advice in spreads back then too.



People still carry around their tiny dogs.




Photos That Remind Me of Current Fashion Brands


J. Crew? or Eddie Bauer?



Banana Republic?



Some Contemporary Department Store Ad? [Lord & Taylor, Bloomingdales, Macy's...]



This concludes the end of the photo series-- after about a week. But don't be sad, girls, more posts soon!

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Monday, July 02, 2007

Woman in the Mirror, Richard Avedon, Libraries #3

Hey hey, here's the next installment of the fashion photography book series. Finally, we're moving on from Vogue and it's spawn, Teen Vogue. Although...when I came home today, this kind of nauseated me. The August issue.


Seriously? Seriously? LAUREN CONRAD HAS ALREADY HAD A COVER IN TEEN VOGUE AND IF SHE DIDN'T DESERVE it the first time, why now?! So I flipped directly to the article which is... just a page long. I guess it was hard to find material to talk about. Again, seriously? Your covergirl, well, COVERGIRLS only get 1 page? Maybe that means you should allot the space to some actual talented stars. How long did that article take, seriously? A day? An hour? Were you pressed for time so they were your last minute backup?

That just...really... I mean, making me lose all my faith. Lord...

And the article just talks about LC who's planning on making a handbag/clothing line something something (surprise surprise) and Whitney who may get a permanent spot on the Teen Vogue staff! yayyyyy -dies down- .

Anyway, we're moving on to a star's material who is much more substantial. Richard Avedon. (which I bet neither of those reality star blondes have ever heard of, cough)

All these photos belong to Richard Avedon and their publications and whatever.

Top 8 Favorite Photos from Richard Avedon's Woman in the Mirror


Paris, August 1955

This is such a graceful, majestic picture...let's hope in Paris they didn't treat them cruelly like many other places in America, like Ringling.

Paris, August 1956

I love this! An extravagant model playing an arcade game. Pinball?

Paris, August 1957


New York, December 1953

Gloria Vanderbilt, socialite. Beautiful portrait.


New York, December 1966


Paris, 1970

Believe it or not, Jean Shrimpton's inside this large, fluid dress. This reminds me of another photo I once saw, I don't know if it was a dress by Roland Mouret or some Japanese designer (very general right?) but when I saw this photo it gave me a deja vu sense.


New York, January 1967

Love the strange fledgling shape this dress makes-- as well as the shiny metallic ribbed tights.


New York, August 1995

What a way to show off a dress by Issey Miyake, huh? Avedon actually has a whole series of photos like this. Kind of creepy. They're the only photos in the whole book that are color. Anyway, it's not really my favorite, but it certainly is...something. Quite um...shocking and definitely not an image I'm going to forget easily.


Wow, this is a record, isn't it? Posts for three straight weekdays.

Now, pardon me while I move this August issue of Teen Vogue off my desk before I puke over their cover girl primped blonde hair. I'll read the rest of the issue later.

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Friday, June 29, 2007

Unseen Vogue & the Teen Vogue: Libraries #2

I thought I'd post the next fashion photography book spreads for the weekend. These next favorites are from Unseen Vogue.

Once again, a disclaimer: These are not my photos, these photos belong to Vogue and their respective photographers.

Top Ten Favorite Unpublished, Old Fashion Photos from Unseen Vogue


Clifford Coffin 1947 [remember him from the last post?]

I love these series of photos. Keep in mind the time period of these shots. They were photographed in a townhouse that had been bombed. And then they have these magnificent dresses with models whose expressions evoke a certain stoicism. The picture on the right is a closeup of my favorite.



Anthony Denney 1950

This soft sultry mix of pink and blacks leaves quite an image. Strangely, it almost looks a little pornographic, with the lighting and everything. And I really like that pink velvet shoe.


Bruce Knight 1953

It seems quite simple, but it's also quite interesting how this model can form so many different poses with that handbag while keeping her feet in the same position throughout all the shots.


Norman Parkinson 1958

Another photo like this one was actually published for their "Young Idea" section. However, this one was axed cause it was said to be too "startling". Oh bother, I love this photo. I don't know, but maybe it's even a tongue-in-cheek comment about how every woman started to have distorted body image issues and wanted to be stick skinny.


David Bailey 1962


Peter Knapp 1971

I find this photograph phenomonal. It looks a bit contemporary even. It's punk and glam and casual all at the same time. A bit sex kitten too. And it's got a filtered look. This model is Cathee Dahmen. She's got such a unique look amongst all the other models, but what do you expect from a supermodel who's half Chippewa and half German? Here's the link to the full picture (There is nudity and I don't want to get in trouble with those under 18).


Steven Meisel 1982

I rather like this series of photographs, especially the ones of the red dress.


Nick Knight, from Lucinda Chambers' scrapbook, 1995

This was taken on Barbuda. It's a gorgeous photo of Shalom Harlow - who is soo beautiful - and Amber Valletta.


Tim Walker 1997

This is one of the rather interesting spreads. You can even see the layout that went into the pose ideas, some of which are quite hilarious when sketched on paper. My favorite is the last sketch, where it looks like a woman is swinging around a tiny man as if she's superwoman and the one where they're all crammed into a land rover.

These are what actually came to fruition (thank god they didn't end up swinging a little kid):





Robert Erdmann 1996

_______

I don't know why I'm posting so much about Vogue. I mean, I shouldn't be since Teen Vogue has been quite frustrating as of late. Why? Well, I entered in their "Win an Internship at Teen Vogue" contest because there seems to not be a more formal way to apply for an internship on their site. Now I think I know why, which will be divulged later on.

They had three online parts, or "challenges", one was a full length photo of an outfit that depicts your style (or maybe just to see how well you would look alongside the other consecutive blonde Teen Vogue interns), another was to say why you should be at Teen Vogue, and the last was to critique their latest issue and say what you would have done to better it.

I know I didn't win-- they were supposed to notify the winners (1 over 18 and 1 under 18) around June 4th-- although I thought I stood a pretty good chance since I took it very seriously to the point that whenever they gave a word limit I made sure I utilized every word in their 500 words limit and tried to hit every topic. I spent hours, days, on the assignments. Of course, at the same time I understand some other people may have had stronger applications than mine.

For the critique, I scoured that Teen Vogue issue and jotted everything that I found to the place where I almost wrote my whole essay in bullet points. I might've stumbled in the critique challenge though...I thought a certain degree of candidness would be appreciated and so maybe I was a little too blunt in some parts of the critique. But everything I said was honest (damn me for having a blog which makes it too easy to be honest)

The only thing I didn't mention was how, more and more increasingly, they seem to market their magazine to privileged tweens. It almost seems like it's Created just for them.

If you want to progress sometimes you need to be blunt. This is why I'm also a huge fan of critics like Cathy Horyn and Suzy Menkes who tell it like it is. I'm not a sycophant, and it's starting to kick in that maybe that's what you need to survive in any field that touches with fashion. Maybe...loving fashion just isn't enough.

But now I realize what axed me might not be either of my candid observations or the way I went thoroughly through the magazine and wrote everything down to the point where I might've as well used bullet points.

It might be a matter of birth, as silly or strange or snarky or dismissive as that might sound at first. After coming across a few articles from the Gawker (daily Manhattan media news and gossip) I found a bittersweet reassurance. Supposedly, all the interns are almost clones of one another, and come from extremely privileged families (not hard to believe). Without getting Too specific, out of the handful there are some which are "CT manor born", and then of course there's one blonde TV semi-star, another blonde TV semi-star, and a girl who got her job through recommendation from the CEO of CBS's daughter who also used to work there but now has a job at Vogue. I suppose that gives you a kind of overall idea.

A little quip from the Gawker:
"...In the preview scene, our young LC is even introduced to whip-brandishing
Vogue EIC Anna Wintour. We can only imagine how Anna reacted to LC's permatan
and eyeliner enthusiasm.

But that's not the point. We were under the impression that Miss Anna didn t even breathe the same air as her own interns...Hell, does she even know where the Teen Vogue offices ARE? We certainly wouldn't think Laguna Beach had enough cachet to get Anna to play nice for the cameras."
Hey, I'm not the one who said it. I guess for maybe the next hundred years Teen Vogue is not only going to be targeted toward well-connected, rich, privileged tweens, but it's going to by them too. I guess it doesn't help to have a unique taste, or a good eye, or bright ideas.

Then there was this one article from Jezebel.com where a suspicion was voiced concerning the Teen Vogue "intern blog"... But the basic idea is all the girls talk about how stressed they were during their first interview and what they decided to wear, which is fine seeing as it's a fashion magazine, but they're all written the same way (clones?) and all the outfits they speak of are way beyond the budget of an average girl-- every girl's outfit of choice totals to more than $1000. Separately. So all Teen Vogue's interns happen to be very well privileged, and their mothers did a terrific job birthing them with great connections. Geez. Why couldn't My mom do that?! (rolls eyes)

I never wanted to believe that something was impossible, but maybe it is.

Anyway what I am getting to is: I decided to email those at Teen Vogue to ask if there was a more formal way to apply-- hey, maybe everything I've read is wrong and I'll try again next summer. Normally, I'm a "don't strike it before you try it" kind of girl.

But no reply from them. What really irks me is when professional company/business doesn't get back to you. I guess it really is all about connections. I mean, with all the interns there, surely they can answer a few emails from their readers?

I mean, that's not a wrong thing to think, is it?

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Thursday, June 28, 2007

Let's Talk About Libraries

So it's summer. You're kind of bored. Nothing holds much interest for you. What do you do? Well, what you should do is utilize your local library [don't worry, this isn't a Reading is Fun plug]. What's not to love? The aircon, the stories, the extreme organization...like the tags I've gotten to put up like I said I would! (you can see the label categories on the sidebar)

What I mean is, you can draw inspiration from and come up with new ideas through poring over gorgeous fashion photography books. Big, thick books which normally cost a fortune-- well, at least $50 a pop. It's quite enriching to look at how fashion has evolved, how it keeps getting recycled, and especially, vintage fashion photography. And even for people who describe fashion as a combination of the words empty, vain, and materialistic, photography is a universal art medium, and so that point can't be argued.

From our library I borrowed:

Unseen Vogue
The Art of Vogue Photographic Covers
Louise Dahl Wolfe
Richard Avedon's Woman in the Mirror



all of which are amazing. And Unseen Vogue gives you a look into photos that never made their way into the magazines because they were too experimental, they had too much of a certain emotion a pose evoked, etc. And each photo has a whole story behind it, written out for your dissection.

I know they're only four titles but these books are HEAVY. I weighed them too: 16 lbs.

A few things I've learned is that:

+No, nothing will change my opinion of the 1980's and early 90's as the worst time in fashion. I found that I placed my little pageholders less and less as the years progressed.

+Women really did only wear crayon red lipstick in the olden days. Every old photo had a woman's lips coated in red lipstick, regardless of whether it fit in with the outfit or not. And always a reddish nailpolish.

+Fur still disgusts me and I still find it distasteful, even if it's 60 years old.

And I've also learned the names of quite a lot of models that used to be en vogue during their time.

Now, I have loads of favorite photos that I bookmarked, but I don't want to drown and inundate you with them, so I'm just going to have each book have it's own seperate post.

My 12 Favorite Photographs from The Art of Vogue Photographic Covers

[These are Not my photos, if it wasn't clear already. These photos belong to Vogue and their respective photographers.]


Bert Stern 1969

I love largeness, yet lightness, of this outfit, popped with splashes of color. It also comes off a little japanese to me for some reason.


Hirsch 1939

This might be my favorite of favorites. It's interesting how this photograph of this outfit appeals to me even more than 60 years later. And I love the bag! I wonder if there really was a mirror in there...


Hoyningen-Huene

The way these 3 different circular prints mesh together is really eyecatching, and the way the red just adds that oomph. I really love how they used to play with the type, "VOGUE" to incorporate it into the photo. I kind of wish they didn't stop.


Horst 1942

Just really love the uniqueness and the color scheme.


Blumenfeld 1950

Blumenfeld is considered maybe "the most inventive Vogue cover photographer of the past two decades" (book) and it's easy to see why in this picture. It's absolutely bold and striking.


Doisneu [French Vogue]

It's gorgeoussss. The color scheme, the scene of Paris and the Eiffel Tower in the background. I want that dress.


Coffin

Captivating and cute.


Coffin

I like this one. I can't really explain it. You can't expect me to explain every one to you anyway, now, can you?


Bailey - Model, Jean Shrimpton

Love how such a delicate looking girl, resembling a bit of Audrey Hepburn from the side, is matched with big yet subtle colored pieces. And I'm in love with that hat's color for the fall.


Penn

It looks a bit "Kate Spade in the 60's" if it ever existed. I like how well the sleekness of the whole photo complements that bright 60's print.


Bailey 1967



Lategan 1974

It's a Italian Vogue's Japanese issue. Enough said.


And true to my word, my favorite outfits and photographs stop in the 70's.

_______



Another thing I've found increasingly wonderful about the library is that once in a while they have big book sales. Despite sounding like Tony the Tiger, I have to say, they're GREAT. I mean, I see children's books that I had used to read when I was a little girl and it's interesting to actually buy them, since, we used to heavily borrow all the time. And I think I've found a new semi-hobby-- collecting vintage, gorgeously illustrated, children's books. Plus, some of them are kind of cute and it never takes too long to breeze through a children's book to see whether or not you'll be satisified with it- unlike novels where I start 1/4 of the way through hoping something will pull me into the story and since I already started, I HAVE to finish reading a crappy story.

My total was around $6 when I went to the recent book sale. Plus, some of them are just very whimsical and funny to have laying around in your dorm room as reading material. (In reference, to the below photograph: No, I am not Jewish)



Because, hey, sometimes, you've gotta judge a book by it's cover.


PS. I got my matt & nat Wright bag that I had been lusting after a while ago. Finally got the chance to put it up. :) !! Not the best photograph, but hey.

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