Unseen Vogue & the Teen Vogue: Libraries #2

I thought I'd post the next fashion photography book spreads for the weekend. These next favorites are from Unseen Vogue.

Once again, a disclaimer: These are not my photos, these photos belong to Vogue and their respective photographers.

Top Ten Favorite Unpublished, Old Fashion Photos from Unseen Vogue


Clifford Coffin 1947 [remember him from the last post?]

I love these series of photos. Keep in mind the time period of these shots. They were photographed in a townhouse that had been bombed. And then they have these magnificent dresses with models whose expressions evoke a certain stoicism. The picture on the right is a closeup of my favorite.



Anthony Denney 1950

This soft sultry mix of pink and blacks leaves quite an image. Strangely, it almost looks a little pornographic, with the lighting and everything. And I really like that pink velvet shoe.


Bruce Knight 1953

It seems quite simple, but it's also quite interesting how this model can form so many different poses with that handbag while keeping her feet in the same position throughout all the shots.


Norman Parkinson 1958

Another photo like this one was actually published for their "Young Idea" section. However, this one was axed cause it was said to be too "startling". Oh bother, I love this photo. I don't know, but maybe it's even a tongue-in-cheek comment about how every woman started to have distorted body image issues and wanted to be stick skinny.

David Bailey 1962

Peter Knapp 1971

I find this photograph phenomonal. It looks a bit contemporary even. It's punk and glam and casual all at the same time. A bit sex kitten too. And it's got a filtered look. This model is Cathee Dahmen. She's got such a unique look amongst all the other models, but what do you expect from a supermodel who's half Chippewa and half German? Here's the link to the full picture (There is nudity and I don't want to get in trouble with those under 18).


Steven Meisel 1982

I rather like this series of photographs, especially the ones of the red dress.

Nick Knight, from Lucinda Chambers' scrapbook, 1995

This was taken on Barbuda. It's a gorgeous photo of Shalom Harlow - who is soo beautiful - and Amber Valletta.


Tim Walker 1997

This is one of the rather interesting spreads. You can even see the layout that went into the pose ideas, some of which are quite hilarious when sketched on paper. My favorite is the last sketch, where it looks like a woman is swinging around a tiny man as if she's superwoman and the one where they're all crammed into a land rover.

These are what actually came to fruition (thank god they didn't end up swinging a little kid):





Robert Erdmann 1996

_______

I don't know why I'm posting so much about Vogue. I mean, I shouldn't be since Teen Vogue has been quite frustrating as of late. Why? Well, I entered in their "Win an Internship at Teen Vogue" contest because there seems to not be a more formal way to apply for an internship on their site. Now I think I know why, which will be divulged later on.

They had three online parts, or "challenges", one was a full length photo of an outfit that depicts your style (or maybe just to see how well you would look alongside the other consecutive blonde Teen Vogue interns), another was to say why you should be at Teen Vogue, and the last was to critique their latest issue and say what you would have done to better it.

I know I didn't win-- they were supposed to notify the winners (1 over 18 and 1 under 18) around June 4th-- although I thought I stood a pretty good chance since I took it very seriously to the point that whenever they gave a word limit I made sure I utilized every word in their 500 words limit and tried to hit every topic. I spent hours, days, on the assignments. Of course, at the same time I understand some other people may have had stronger applications than mine.

For the critique, I scoured that Teen Vogue issue and jotted everything that I found to the place where I almost wrote my whole essay in bullet points. I might've stumbled in the critique challenge though...I thought a certain degree of candidness would be appreciated and so maybe I was a little too blunt in some parts of the critique. But everything I said was honest (damn me for having a blog which makes it too easy to be honest)

The only thing I didn't mention was how, more and more increasingly, they seem to market their magazine to privileged tweens. It almost seems like it's Created just for them.

If you want to progress sometimes you need to be blunt. This is why I'm also a huge fan of critics like Cathy Horyn and Suzy Menkes who tell it like it is. I'm not a sycophant, and it's starting to kick in that maybe that's what you need to survive in any field that touches with fashion. Maybe...loving fashion just isn't enough.

But now I realize what axed me might not be either of my candid observations or the way I went thoroughly through the magazine and wrote everything down to the point where I might've as well used bullet points.

It might be a matter of birth, as silly or strange or snarky or dismissive as that might sound at first. After coming across a few articles from the Gawker (daily Manhattan media news and gossip) I found a bittersweet reassurance. Supposedly, all the interns are almost clones of one another, and come from extremely privileged families (not hard to believe). Without getting Too specific, out of the handful there are some which are "CT manor born", and then of course there's one blonde TV semi-star, another blonde TV semi-star, and a girl who got her job through recommendation from the CEO of CBS's daughter who also used to work there but now has a job at Vogue. I suppose that gives you a kind of overall idea.

A little quip from the Gawker:

"...In the preview scene, our young LC is even introduced to whip-brandishing
Vogue EIC Anna Wintour. We can only imagine how Anna reacted to LC's permatan
and eyeliner enthusiasm.

But that's not the point. We were under the impression that Miss Anna didn t even breathe the same air as her own interns...Hell, does she even know where the Teen Vogue offices ARE? We certainly wouldn't think Laguna Beach had enough cachet to get Anna to play nice for the cameras."

Hey, I'm not the one who said it. I guess for maybe the next hundred years Teen Vogue is not only going to be targeted toward well-connected, rich, privileged tweens, but it's going to by them too. I guess it doesn't help to have a unique taste, or a good eye, or bright ideas.

Then there was this one article from Jezebel.com where a suspicion was voiced concerning the Teen Vogue "intern blog"... But the basic idea is all the girls talk about how stressed they were during their first interview and what they decided to wear, which is fine seeing as it's a fashion magazine, but they're all written the same way (clones?) and all the outfits they speak of are way beyond the budget of an average girl-- every girl's outfit of choice totals to more than $1000. Separately. So all Teen Vogue's interns happen to be very well privileged, and their mothers did a terrific job birthing them with great connections. Geez. Why couldn't My mom do that?! (rolls eyes)

I never wanted to believe that something was impossible, but maybe it is.

Anyway what I am getting to is: I decided to email those at Teen Vogue to ask if there was a more formal way to apply-- hey, maybe everything I've read is wrong and I'll try again next summer. Normally, I'm a "don't strike it before you try it" kind of girl.

But no reply from them. What really irks me is when professional company/business doesn't get back to you. I guess it really is all about connections. I mean, with all the interns there, surely they can answer a few emails from their readers?

I mean, that's not a wrong thing to think, is it?

Let's Talk About Libraries

So it's summer. You're kind of bored. Nothing holds much interest for you. What do you do? Well, what you should do is utilize your local library [don't worry, this isn't a Reading is Fun plug]. What's not to love? The aircon, the stories, the extreme organization...like the tags I've gotten to put up like I said I would! (you can see the label categories on the sidebar)

What I mean is, you can draw inspiration from and come up with new ideas through poring over gorgeous fashion photography books. Big, thick books which normally cost a fortune-- well, at least $50 a pop. It's quite enriching to look at how fashion has evolved, how it keeps getting recycled, and especially, vintage fashion photography. And even for people who describe fashion as a combination of the words empty, vain, and materialistic, photography is a universal art medium, and so that point can't be argued.

From our library I borrowed:

Unseen Vogue
The Art of Vogue Photographic Covers
Louise Dahl Wolfe
Richard Avedon's Woman in the Mirror



all of which are amazing. And Unseen Vogue gives you a look into photos that never made their way into the magazines because they were too experimental, they had too much of a certain emotion a pose evoked, etc. And each photo has a whole story behind it, written out for your dissection.

I know they're only four titles but these books are HEAVY. I weighed them too: 16 lbs.

A few things I've learned is that:

+No, nothing will change my opinion of the 1980's and early 90's as the worst time in fashion. I found that I placed my little pageholders less and less as the years progressed.

+Women really did only wear crayon red lipstick in the olden days. Every old photo had a woman's lips coated in red lipstick, regardless of whether it fit in with the outfit or not. And always a reddish nailpolish.

+Fur still disgusts me and I still find it distasteful, even if it's 60 years old.

And I've also learned the names of quite a lot of models that used to be en vogue during their time.

Now, I have loads of favorite photos that I bookmarked, but I don't want to drown and inundate you with them, so I'm just going to have each book have it's own seperate post.

My 12 Favorite Photographs from The Art of Vogue Photographic Covers

[These are Not my photos, if it wasn't clear already. These photos belong to Vogue and their respective photographers.]


Bert Stern 1969

I love largeness, yet lightness, of this outfit, popped with splashes of color. It also comes off a little japanese to me for some reason.


Hirsch 1939

This might be my favorite of favorites. It's interesting how this photograph of this outfit appeals to me even more than 60 years later. And I love the bag! I wonder if there really was a mirror in there...


Hoyningen-Huene

The way these 3 different circular prints mesh together is really eyecatching, and the way the red just adds that oomph. I really love how they used to play with the type, "VOGUE" to incorporate it into the photo. I kind of wish they didn't stop.


Horst 1942

Just really love the uniqueness and the color scheme.


Blumenfeld 1950

Blumenfeld is considered maybe "the most inventive Vogue cover photographer of the past two decades" (book) and it's easy to see why in this picture. It's absolutely bold and striking.


Doisneu [French Vogue]

It's gorgeoussss. The color scheme, the scene of Paris and the Eiffel Tower in the background. I want that dress.


Coffin

Captivating and cute.


Coffin

I like this one. I can't really explain it. You can't expect me to explain every one to you anyway, now, can you?


Bailey - Model, Jean Shrimpton

Love how such a delicate looking girl, resembling a bit of Audrey Hepburn from the side, is matched with big yet subtle colored pieces. And I'm in love with that hat's color for the fall.


Penn

It looks a bit "Kate Spade in the 60's" if it ever existed. I like how well the sleekness of the whole photo complements that bright 60's print.


Bailey 1967



Lategan 1974

It's a Italian Vogue's Japanese issue. Enough said.


And true to my word, my favorite outfits and photographs stop in the 70's.

_______



Another thing I've found increasingly wonderful about the library is that once in a while they have big book sales. Despite sounding like Tony the Tiger, I have to say, they're GREAT. I mean, I see children's books that I had used to read when I was a little girl and it's interesting to actually buy them, since, we used to heavily borrow all the time. And I think I've found a new semi-hobby-- collecting vintage, gorgeously illustrated, children's books. Plus, some of them are kind of cute and it never takes too long to breeze through a children's book to see whether or not you'll be satisified with it- unlike novels where I start 1/4 of the way through hoping something will pull me into the story and since I already started, I HAVE to finish reading a crappy story.

My total was around $6 when I went to the recent book sale. Plus, some of them are just very whimsical and funny to have laying around in your dorm room as reading material. (In reference, to the below photograph: No, I am not Jewish)



Because, hey, sometimes, you've gotta judge a book by it's cover.


PS. I got my matt & nat Wright bag that I had been lusting after a while ago. Finally got the chance to put it up. :) !! Not the best photograph, but hey.

Major Edressme $75 Designer Dress Sale!!!

Okay. I found this deal, and if you're a regular visitor to my site I think you'll be quite impressed. I wanted to post it later on, but then I realized that it EXPIRES at 10 TONIGHT! Yes, the deal is that good that they are only having it for one day.

So now you're probably wondering what's getting me so excited.. well it's the edressme $75 dress sale! If you've ever wanted to own a brand spankin' new Betsey Johnson, Nicole Miller, Abaete, Plenty, Cynthia Vincent, BCBG, Vivienne Tam, Sue Wong, Shoshanna, Anna Sui, or Tracey Reese designer dress for $75, or well below $75 (you'll see what I'm talking about soon), this is your chance! Agghhhh I wish I had enough money to buy like, TEN of these.

I say well below $75 because there happen to be 2 coupon codes that I found...one from Lucky (god, I love Lucky) which is 30% off: code- luckybreaks. Another one is the code- essence, which is 25% off, in case the first one doesn't work. Now I'm not sure if these codes work on sales so don't kill me if I got your expectations up. But if they do? That means that you could possibly get any of the previously mentioned designer dresses for around 50 bucks. And THAT is amazing on top of amazing.

Plus, if you're still a highschooler and want to stock up on Prom dresses for next year, this is a great way to do it. You can get designer AND can save your parents, or your, money. They have a great selection (though limited sizes and quantity) and of course, crazy crazy pricing. Below is the Jovani White Embellished Evening Gown down from $328 to $75. Definitely my favorite pick of their prom dresses.



Seriously. I'm so excited. This is the stuff that makes my adrenaline rush, besides before tests. I might buy one myself... after the angel and devil on my shoulders duke it out.

Dresses:










If you've got your eye on one, you'd better hurry hurry hurry to www.eluxury.com. Half of thsee dresses have just disappeared since when I first got on the site. If the page no longer has an "Order" button, it means they've sold out. Good thing is that they keep on putting new designer dresses up throughout the day so keep checking back there.

Good luck!

Into The Blue or Under The Sea (I couldn't decide)

You know what's frustrating? Getting your hands on an image that company people don't want to give out because you're not an authorized retailer. I mean, I respect the whole...system. But it's so...nervewracking when you really want to see the gorgeous image of an ad campaign that you saw a few weeks ago in person at a storefront but the "man" has the image and he won't give it to you so you'll never see it ever again!! not even for the purpose of your website. Shouldn't art be out there for everyone and anyone to admire?

If you want to know what company I am wracking my brains about, it's Swarovski. Reason? Personally, I've been obsessed with a more "Under the Sea" theme as of late because it's definitely time for the nautical to take a rest. So what better way than to go down the anchor and delve further into the ocean? I mean, creatures and underwater life are a lot more animated than sailor decor details, seersucker pinstripes, and brass buttons.

When I first wanted to do this article, I was reminded of this beautiful ad I saw at the Swarovski store in Atlantic City. It was a picture of the back of a brunette woman with her hair pinned in a wavy bun with seahorse, seashell, and starfish hairpins from their "cruise collection". I wanted to secure the image and put it up here as a relevant way to start off...but I guess you'll just have to use your imagination, because, well, you know...god forbid Swarovski allow their ad to be posted on a website.

That happens to be the reason why I got to this post 2 weeks later than I planned...that and then my internet decided it was a good time to go into hibernation. And for the past few days, I've been terribly sick (rather not go into the details). At least now it's calmed to nothing more than a turbulent stomachache and an urge to consume biscuits and mashed potatoes-- neither of which I'm supposed to eat. [photos: swarovski.com]

Now, before I fully emerge your head into the ocean, here are some very worthy (and well-priced) above the sea, beachy and boardwalk-y picks.

Patrick Robinson's GO Collection @ Target was actually inspired by the Mediterranian. Worth checking out. Click on the photos to go to their webpages.




Other items at Target:

1. A White Straw Floppy Hat (I bought one for myself...been looking forever for one that wasn't over $60)
2. Issac Mizrahi Canvas Tote, Metallic Trim
3. Rafe for Target Flap Shoulder Bag
4. Issac Mizrahi Square Flap Bag (love the color set and it's really adorable in person)
5. Drawstring Leaf-Print Purse (ditto)
6. Clear/Gold Purse (..if you've been meaning to try out the current clear bag hubub. Speaking of, I think a clear bag's good for the beach but not much else. Do you really want everyone to see the unmentionables you put in your everyday purse?)
7. Kate Spade-like Woven Straw Bag (sold out online but probably still in stores)







And here comes the continuation of the previous all leather-free Alloy Shoe Sale post. Right now you can even get free shipping on orders over $75 with code AEGW75 . Click on the photos to go to their webpages.

For when you're thinking beach, And you've got to think espadrilles (for that woven rope sort of look)



Unless, um, you'd like to hit the deck in these (I'm sounding more and more commercial, aren't I?). I think they're kind of gorgeous. In a high fashion, impractical way. Part of me thinks that they must have been spun off from some runway designer. Interestingly enough, they're also by Charles Albert.


But since we're heading more into the sea, you should keep in mind shoes of a more royal blue. Like these. Damn! Which are also Charles Albert. Man, he has really good taste.


I can't help but think Vans look like the quintessential sailor's sneaker, in a more contemporary age.


And These are just cute for padding around. (Sugar, of course)


So if you're wondering how intense I am about this "Under the Sea" I assure you I am very serious. In fact, I was hypnotically induced by this idea that when I snapped out of it I found I made this. I call it "Crab Couture". No, seriously. Plus, since the crab's on hinges it's claws swing around.



Yes that's right, lady and gents, she makes jewelry too! A bit elementary and not professionally, though I actually hope to someday. Maybe as a fun, side-job. I've run out of those little v-shaped beads though...need to find some more. Agh that's the thing with beads, there's so many different kinds that it's hard to pick between them at the store. I can hardly figure out a certain style's potential until after I buy them, which has its monetary downfalls.

I've been thinking of making more "under the sea" themed necklaces. My little notepad reads like an ecosystem:

"octopus, jellyfish, squid, mantis/sting ray, starfish, crab, lobster, seahorse, crayfish, plankton,

sanddollar, algae necklace"

(PS. I have no idea how I would make a necklace look like tangled algae)

My obsession has grown kind of large. A couple days ago, I was at the library researching seahorses (that sounds very scholarly but I went, honestly, because my internet had been MIA for much too long). I learned that there are fisherman in Asia who capture large numbers of seahorses because they believe it has medicinal use and so their numbers are rapidly declining and I saw large baskets full of dead, dried seahorses which made me really sad.

Did you know that baby seahorses sometimes form groups by holding onto each other's tails (WorldBookEncyclopedia)? (Yes, I am aware of how dorky I sound) I've been looking for such a photo depiction (darn these image obstacles) and I can't find one. I was thinking of making a necklace with a bunch of seahorses linked to each other but I don't have a real life image so I'm not exactly sure how this tail-linking group looks like.


My under-the-sea obsession is strange too because crustaceans (which are no Sebastian) and slimy squids really creep me out in real life. But I like the idea of trying to depict them as cute.



Anyhow, Kate Spade's got the right idea of going into the blue with her summer lobster claw fob/charm and lobster print collection. Wish they weren't leather though, for my purpose at least.

[photos: neimanmarcus.com, nordstrom.com, neimanmarcus.com]

Of course, her Cape Cod collection (currently on sale katespade.com) is chock full of (saltwater) taste. I love that red dress.

[photos: katespade.com]

Another label that's getting the hang of things is C&C California, with their starfish and octopus prints.



[photos: shopbop.com]

Kenneth Jay Lane's got a few marine creatures stuck up his sleeve as well, including these octopus rings, starfish ring and bracelet, and pretty conchshell-type ring. Click on the photos to go their webpages.




[photos: vivre.com, electricladyland.com, pinkmascara.com]

Here are some more under the sea jewelry from Fred Flare and around the net. Click on the pictures to go to the websites.


[photos: fredflare.com]



[photos: lisakline.com, nordstrom.com, urbn.com, eddiebauer.com]



Now, I scoured Etsy top to bottom, and all over the seafloor, for these picks. Since I like supporting indie designers. :) Clicking on the below pictures will lead you to their respective webpages.

[right, "Grace" photo print]

[photos: etsy.com, respective sellers]

And now some more Designer ideas. Click on the pictures to take you through to their sites. In order:

Oceanic Top by LaRok. J. Crew Lobster Skirt. Madison Marcus Chiffon Blouse. Cynthia Steffe Starfish Trapeze Dress. Octopi Necklace Dress. Daryl K-189 & Barneys CO-OP Pintuck Belted Dress. Eva Franco Seahorse Dress. Nicole Miller Tie-Dye Ruched Dress. Betsey Johnson Starfish Dress. Mara Hoffman Octopus Dress.








Also, a selection from Anthropologie:




Totes from EBags and Urban Outfitters:



And lastly, pants. I love these two styles from Ralph Lauren, Ocean Parachute Capri Pant, and Citizens of Humanity, Octopus Skinny Jean in Atlantis Wash (Octopus Embroidered on Back Pocket!). Plus, the jeans in size 27 are on sale at Barneys.com for $89. For other sizes, but no sale, Saks.com will do the trick:



So you see, the water's fine. ;) You gonna leap in or what?

______________


Speaking of leaping in...please take a moment to send off a message (already written out online by SaveDarfur) to ask Secretary Rice to urge China & France to join together with the US on Darfur diplomacy when she attends an important diplomatic meeting on Monday. World leaders need to increase pressure on the Sudanese President Bashir and you can do a little bit of your part by just filling out a few blanks.

http://ga6.org/campaign/petition_rice